New Parts

So in the post christmas grind back into things, I have bought a G series Hilux Rear to replace the T series Rear end found in the celica. the Hilux is an 8″ and due to the nature of the vehicle it also has many options. however be afraid, these will need shortening down so that it fits inside of the celica chassis. the stock Hilux live axle can be 1450mm from drum surface to surface, where as the T series that originally comes out of the celica is approx 1320mm which is very small.

Other additions to my collection is the front stub axles from a Mitsi Evo 8… watch this space as im thinking of something drastic and well oversized in the brakeing front.

The new engine mounts are almost in but to access them the front (lower) control arms will be significantly in the way. so this will mean that I will require a few new ideas regarding the control arms, so again watch this space as I am looking at making some adjustable control arms with custom points. the front end of this car is starting to get messy!

Current Progress

thought I should share some photos of the current progress

as you can see there has been much progress with this and by the end of next week I should have the completions ot the engine mounts done, seing as this is the second attempt that I have had as the original pipes I used were not tall enough, also shown is the a piece of the new boot and it being beaten into shape, this should mean that it gives the boot strength so that it can be loaded with heavy musical equipment once it has been done. Also note the whole in the floor in the passenger area, this is to make way for the gearbox where the shifter is hard up against a mid support for the car.

Seats

My seats

Finally arrived. I bought Sparco R100 seats. They fit in the car perfectly. Im wrapped.

Only problem is I have since found out they may not be ADR approved which is hard to believe as even autotechnica seats that are shit are ADR approved, this is a warning to all Aussie builders, check to see if your new gear is ARD approved if not, dont buy that shit.

English 3S-GE Beams Workshop Manual

Please help all those with 3S-GE Beams engines who do not read Japanese http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=26/SUBID=290/ID=478/SID=63076686/productdetails.html put your name down for this book!!!
The other book avalible for Beams Engines is the Engine Assembily Manual, http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=26/SUBID=290/ID=719/SID=351625153/productdetails.html this covers only tollerances and Torque settings for Engine ASSY, removal and installation, valve clearance, timing belt,camshaft, camshaft oil seal, cylinder head and much more

Rear Differential

I am currently researching different Diff options, and considering trying to locate a RN20 or RN25 rear Diff, this is because the original diff is only a miesly 1310mm wide and the RN series Hilux (Jan 1972 to Jan 1975) or any first generation Hilux which ran from 1979 to 1983
A lot of information regarding Ratio’s etc can be found on the net if you look hard enough:

http://akb.norbie.net/

http://www.aeu86.org/index/toyota-differentials/cat/9/topic=4761

Fitting the Beams Engine

After moving several times I now have a garage big enough to work in, so here is what has happened since my last post.

I have now cut out the original engine mounts from the existing cross member and have also cut out precious metal in the tunnel so that the gear box will fit in. this will be moved supprisingly far back compared to the original position, which suits me as it will give a more natural feel to where the gearbox should be from the original. One thing to note regarding the placement of the gearbox is that a short sifter will be needed unless you feel like having the shifter near the top of the dash board which would be like driving a WRC Rally car, not ideal!!!

I am currently in the process of getting the gearbox and engine mounted in a position that will work with all parts and without comprimising the celicas frame. One of the other problems will be that the front cross member may cause problems regarding the placement of the engine, the TA23 cross member sweeps toward the back of the car a fair bit, this will mean that once the mounts are made the gearbox will have to be seperated from the engine to get the gearbox in and out, as the angles are not going to work with trying to get the engine in and out again when the final paint is applied to the engine bay. There are example’s I have seen of people modifying the sump to suit the front sway bar, but considering the length and height of the engine I dont think that this is avoidable.

Another things to note is that all the rust is finally totally cut out of the car, after talking to a coach builder I have started using zinc annealed steel to replace any parts that were rusty. The reason for this is better rust proofing on the new material and also it is easier to work with than Galv steel which needs major grinding prior to welding, where as Zinc annealed will only need light sanding to get a surface to weld.

3S-GE BEAMS ARRIVED

Well here is how I imported my own engine from New Zealand to Australia,

Engine Cost NZ$2750
Shipping NZ$450
Customs Duty/GST Au$630
Port / Handling Charges Au$520

So now that I finally have the engine and gearbox i can make up the engine placement and cut a new hole for the gear stick. will be placing some new pics up soon when I have the old engine out and most of the body prep done.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.